Illustration by Aaliyah Diaz
If you walked into pretty much any cafe right now, you’d see at least half of the tables occupied by stressed college students and adults alike, heads bent over laptops, fingers flying across keyboards. Whether you’re working on an essay or rushing through a project report, we’ve inadvertently transformed cafes into de facto offices, prioritizing productivity over presence. However, there’s a new cafe in the heart of Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood that actively challenges this trend, focusing instead on fostering community in a city often characterized by its cold demeanor.
Bonito Café y Mercadito is a proud Latino-owned establishment that has already started to make a name for itself. Their menu is filled with homages to the owners Ismael and Daniel Calderón's Mexican heritage, and offers everything from horchata iced chai lattes to rich café de olla drip. Aside from their unique menu items, Bonito sets itself apart with its deliberate rejection of the digital grind: hosting lively mercaditos (markets) and, most notably in my opinion, turning off their Wi-Fi on weekends. I instantly saw this “no Wi-Fi” policy as a bold statement: Bonito is more than just a place to grab a latte; it's a space designed for real human connection, a refreshing change from the solitary, screen-focused experience that has come to define modern cafe culture.
While Bonito’s approach may seem radical today, it actually calls back to the roots of cafes. Going all the way back to the 17th-century, London coffeehouses were not just places for a "bitter, Turkish brew". They were often referred to as "penny universities” — where a penny could buy you not only a drink but also access to a vibrant world of conversation and ideas. These coffeehouses weren't just about the caffeine; they were hubs of intellectual chatter and social exchange. Establishments were furnished with long communal tables, littered with newspapers, pamphlets, and the latest broadsides, the air thick with bright conversation. While bringing media to a coffeehouse has never been a foreign concept, the distinction from then to now is the culture surrounding these shops. While the notion of striking up a conversation with a stranger feels alien in our modern cafe culture, these communal tables of the past actively invited patrons to engage in conversation over their neighbor’s work. One would often see complete strangers immersed in political discourse or analyzing the latest publications. This environment was a catalyst for creativity and political discourse, fostering debates that shaped the future.
But as technology has progressed and remote work has become increasingly prevalent — especially after the pandemic restrictions were lifted in 2021 — the dynamic began to shift. Cafes, once primarily third locations focused on fostering community and conversation, became de facto remote offices. This change didn’t just alter our mental approach to coffee shops, but also the very architecture and design of the shops. New cafes found themselves prioritizing individual nooks over communal spaces — inadvertently discouraging the social interaction that was once the essence of coffeehouses. However, despite these growing trends, Bonito is consciously pushing back against the isolation and offering a glimpse of how community and conversation might be rekindled.
Bonito’s “no Wi-Fi on weekends” policy offers a compelling answer: stepping back to move forward. Bonito prides itself in going beyond “just coffee”; they make a conscious effort to cultivate connection. This simple policy is an essential contributor to Bonito’s atmosphere, encouraging patrons to look up from their screens and engage with the people and environment around them. But the policy alone isn’t the only factor to Bonito’s electric atmosphere.
Bonito further fosters this sense of community through carving out cultural spaces. Bonito’s mercaditos showcase local BIPOC businesses — directly connecting patrons with creators and fostering a sense of shared cultural experience and support. Additionally, they have a corner of their cafe that highlights more small businesses during all hours. Owners Ismael and Daniel Calderon clearly envision Bonito as more than just a transaction point for coffee; they are intentionally building a space where people feel a sense of belonging and connection. The celebration of their Latino heritage, evident in both the menu and the cafe's overall ambiance, adds another layer of warmth and inclusivity. Bonito incorporates small touches, like a photobooth, that contribute to the social atmosphere.
Bonito's mission and approach leads one to reflect: while the convenience of using cafes as personal workspaces is undeniable, perhaps it's time to consider how we give back to these spaces that host our seemingly endless work hours. As patrons we hold a significant power in shaping the future of cafe culture. The allure of a cafe optimized for individual productivity, with endless outlets and private booths, comes at the cost of lost connection. So the next time you find yourself looking for a cafe to work at, maybe try to embrace opportunities for genuine connection — whether that's a quick chat with the barista or simply putting your laptop away for a moment and noticing the people around you. We have the power to reintroduce the lively and community-focused culture back into cafes. This article is not a call to reject technology or to claim that it's “driving us apart.” Technology isn’t going anywhere, but neither is our fundamental need for connection. We need to find a balance, a way to integrate our digital lives with our physical presence in these communal spaces, fostering both individual pursuits and the enriching experience of human interaction. Perhaps, by actively choosing moments of presence over productivity, we can help the spirit of the "penny university" — the vibrant exchange and unexpected connection — find its way back into our modern cafes, one connection at a time.